The Free Spirit Tank by Patterns for Pirates

I have once again been honored to test for Patterns for Pirates. This new pattern, the Free Spirit Tank, is loaded with options. From dress length to cropped top and everything in between, this is going to be your go to summer staple! I made myself not one but TWO tank this week! First, I did the curved hem then the hi/lo. I love the hi/lo stuff!

If you haven't worked much with knits, don't fret. This one is easy and you can even leave the bottom hem raw if you want. I tried hem tape for the first time on this one and I loved it! I will be using it more often from now on! Beginners can sew this pattern! For those well versed in sewing with knits, this one will be a quick project to add to your summer wardrobe! (the thermometer in my van hit 90 here today, so just in time!)

I love the coverage under the arm and that the neckline isn't too high or too low. Sized for XXS through Plus 3X, this pattern will fit everyone. My 16 year old can't wait some new tanks to wear to band camp this year! It comes in both a full back and racer back! And you should see this bow option! You have to head over to the Patterns for Pirates Sewing Group on FB and check out all the testers' pictures! The possibilities are endless! For a Limited time only, you can get the matching girls pattern Talor Tank by Made for Mermaids in a bundle set! TWINSIES! Head over now and grab these summer staples!

How to Serge or do a Rolled Hem with Sequin Chiffon OR How to Remove Glued Sequin

Okay, my job was to sew a dress with this lovely light fabrics... I went to the store and found this gorgeous navy chiffon with little silver metallic sequin. They were glued on. I loved it! I'd never used the stuff before, but how hard could it be? The pattern suggested using a very tiny needle for the lightweight fabrics such as chiffon, so I picked up a pack of 60/8 universal needles. I was ready...

Just to make sure my settings were correct, I picked up scraps of this sequined chiffon and started practicing my rolled hem (I don't work with chiffon on even a yearly basis... so practice is a must.). Sure enough, once that nice and tiny needle hit a sequin, my thread broke. I tried again and got the same result (definition of insanity).

Then I turned to the internet for help. I googled and searched and googled. I couldn't find anything to really help. I tried picking them off and darned things wouldn't budge. I had a deadline. I had to finish this dress. I needed a solution fast. So, I ran to the store for non-sequined chiffon. Uh-oh, they didn't have any plain navy chiffon in-stock. Crap. I've got to make this work. So I asked some sewing friends... one suggestion was to use Goo Gone. At this point, I'll try anything. I knew it was a blend of oils, so I COULD get that off the fabric if I had to. I didn't think it would eat the fabric like some more abrasive cleaners and solvents.

To my utter surprise, those suckers peeled right off! It was SO EASY! YAY!!! So I took my 2 big circles for skirt layers and I turned on the TV and grabbed a beer and dabbed and plucked and dabbed and plucked until the hemlines were clear! I gave myself at least half and inch or more just to be safe. Then I brilliantly (patting myself on the back for this one) remembered that the skirts would have to be attached to the bodice, so I better remove the sequins up at the top as well or I'd be crying again when I went to attach them. In all, I spent less than an hour sitting there removing all those little sequin (it was a LOT). Then I quickly set up my serger and finished those hemlines. Since I had so little luck finding things when I searched online, I decided to put this out there for others who land in my position! Here are the steps...

What you'll need:

• cotton swabs or your preferred method for applying product to back of sequin
• Goo Gone
• glue-attached sequined fabric (I really think this will remove glued sequin from any fabric)
• glass of wine, beer or tea (whatever floats your boat... totally optional though)

Steps:

1.  Open Goo Gone.
2. Apply a small amount to the cotton swab.
3. Dab the swab on the back of the sequin (wrong side of fabric).
4. Flip fabric over to right side and peel off sequin. 
5. Repeat until finished! (Have a drink every few sequins.)

To see my review of Maddie's Dress by Lily Bird Studio, head over to Pattern Revolution. And here's a little (very short) video of how easily they peel off compared to not using Goo Gone. I didn't even finish my drink! 

The Grace Top and Dress by Made for Mermaids

Let me tell you about the Grace! If you haven't tried this pattern, you need to!!! Sized from 1/2 to girls 14, it fits nearly every girl in your sewing field of vision (unless you're like me and your friend just had a newborn... then you'll have to wait just a little bit.).

The best part about this dress is those sleeves. Sigh. They're just so... so... elegant... wistful... dreamy... I love them! Now this comes in both dress and top lengths, but I made the top length. I also used this beautiful Glow Voile by Amy Butler for Freespirit Fabrics that I got from Bee Quilted Beauties.

 This sash can be tied in the front or back depending on how your little one likes to wear it. Now let's talk about those sleeves. They truly are what make this pattern gorgeous. They do take time! I spent a good chunk of time folding and pressing and folding and pressing to get that beautiful hem. 

This dress can be truly wonderful with all those finishing touches included in the Grace pattern. Choose understitching instead of topstitching to secure those seams but keep a clean neckline. You can even fully enclose the bodice with a handstitched seam if you're up to it! I decided I was up to it! Done in voile, this top is so soft and comfy, even on the inside, that she wears it all the time! 

Now run, don't walk, over to Made for Mermaids and check out the Grace along with all those other wonderful summer patterns! Jenna happens to be wearing a pair of Lucy Ruffle Shorts in these photos! 

Nelle Sew Along Series: Ric Rac Details and Serger-less Seams

Today is Day 4 of the sew along. We have a guest blog post by Lisa of Lemon drop and Lollipops. She does her Nelle without serging the seams and it looks pretty cool. I also love her little ric rac details!


I do my sleeves first and I cut them out a little wider than what the pattern says, because I fold them under twice since I don't have a serger. Fold once, press, then fold again. After they are folded I lay the ric-rac on top and sew it down as I go, sewing the ric rac on and stitching the sleeve at the same time. Do this exact thing to the other sleeve.

 

Attach the sleeves to the front bodice. Now attach to the back bodice and sew the side seams of the bodices. I just do a zig zag to enclose the raw edge. Repeat for the other side. Now onto the bias tape.

 Put that raw edge inside of the bias tape. Sandwich it in there really well. 

I stitch it down on the right side of the dress. Hard to explain, but this helps me keep it looking neater and giving it a good straight line. It puckers a little, but it's not noticeable at all when it's on.

I press the seams towards the sleeves. I think some stitch this part down. I do not. I just eyeball this part. Fold it down and press. Doing the top stitch right around the neck. Now it's ready for the elastic casing to be made.

I must have skipped a picture, but fold a little bit under, press and then sew it down, leaving an opening for the elastic to slide through. Put elastic through, sew it together and then close the opening. The top is done.

Be sure to head over to Lemon drop and Lollipops on Facebook and tell her thanks for this tutorial! Don't forget to share your finished items with the group on FB or with #nellesewalong on Instagram for a chance to win a free Brownie-Goose pattern! 

The Nelle Sew Along Series: Twirly Skirt Tutorial

Today is Day THREE in the Nelle Sew Along Series. Today we hop on over to Jenna's blog, Sewing Sunflowers, to see how she turns the Nelle into a twirly skirt complete with a ruffle on the bottom! Get this, she even did all the math for you and tells you what sizes pieces to cut for each size! Click HERE for the link! Be sure to tell her thanks and stay tuned for tomorrow's guest blog post from Lemon drops and Lollipops about using ric rac.

Image from Sewing Sunflowers

Don't forget to start planning your projects for the giveaway! Remember, 3 ways to win with two of them left up to chance! See the first post for all the details and the links. Start hashttagging those Instagram pics! #nellesewalong Happy Sewing!

The Nelle Sew Along Series: Perfect Bias Tape

Day two of the Sew Along! Okay, for those who love the look of the bias tape on the arm holes but end up with a hot mess, here's Raedene of Chasing Mermaids with her tried and true bias tape method. P.S. I REALLY want a bias tape machine now! Click here ----> LINK!

Repeat from Yesterday: There are some patterns out there that you never get tired of sewing. The Nelle by Brownie-Goose is one of those for me and everyone contributing to this series. This blog series will cover tips, tricks, and over the top add-ons to this classic pattern. Be sure to stay tuned!

DAY ONE: Bias-Less Arm Holes by Lollipops & Paisley
DAY TWO: Perfect Bias Tape by ChasingMermaids
DAY THREE: Twirly Skirt Tutorial by Sewing Sunflowers
DAY FOUR: Ric Rac Details by Lemon drops and Lollipops
DAY FIVE: Buttons, Pockets, and Flowers, Oh My! by Lollipops & Paisley

Now you make think, why should I bother? Well, here's why, Mother Goose (AKA Amy) is going to offer an incentive to participate in the Sew Along! HAPPY DANCE! So there will be 3 ways to enter. First, just anyone who shares with the Brownie-Goose lovers group on Facebook will get a chance to win a free BG pattern, winner drawn via Random.org. Secondly, we'll have a voting contest on the same FB group for fans choice award, prize is a free BG pattern. Lastly, we'll have an Instagram (because who doesn't love IG?) tag contest for a chance to win the third free BG pattern. Just use #nellesewalong to tag your finished project pics. Each finished project will get an entry and winner drawn via Random.org. The Sew Along Blog Series will run 5 days and then we'll give everyone a week to plan projects, sew them, and then post finished pics in the various places. That means this giveaway will close Sunday night on the 16th. We'll leave voting open on the sewing group for 24hrs and then winners announced on the 18th. Please comment below with any questions!

The Nelle Sew Along Series& Giveaway: Bias-Less Arms Holes

There are some patterns out there that you never get tired of sewing. The Nelle by Brownie-Goose is one of those for me and everyone contributing to this series. This blog series will cover tips, tricks, and over the top add-ons to this classic pattern. Be sure to stay tuned!

DAY ONE: Bias-Less Arm Holes by Lollipops & Paisley
DAY TWO: Perfect Bias Tape by ChasingMermaids
DAY THREE: Twirly Skirt Tutorial by Sewing Sunflowers
DAY FOUR: Ric Rac Details by Lemon drops and Lollipops
DAY FIVE: Buttons, Pockets, and Flowers, Oh My! by Lollipops & Paisley

Now you make think, why should I bother? Well, here's why, Mother Goose (AKA Amy) is going to offer an incentive to participate in the Sew Along! HAPPY DANCE! So there will be 3 ways to enter. First, just anyone who shares with the Brownie-Goose lovers group on Facebook will get a chance to win a free BG pattern, winner drawn via Random.org. Secondly, we'll have a voting contest on the same FB group for fans choice award, prize is a free BG pattern. Lastly, we'll have an Instagram (because who doesn't love IG?) tag contest for a chance to win the third free BG pattern. Just use #nellesewalong to tag your finished project pics. Each finished project will get an entry and winner drawn via Random.org. The Sew Along Blog Series will run 5 days and then we'll give everyone a week to plan projects, sew them, and then post finished pics in the various places. That means this giveaway will close Sunday night on the 16th. We'll leave voting open on the sewing group for 24hrs and then winners announced on the 18th. Please comment below with any questions!

Feel Free to use this button (grab the HTML at the side -----> ) to share on  your own blog or IG or FB or any other place you'd like to show you're joining the fun!

First up, is the the bias-less version of the Nelle. That's right, NO BIAS TAPE! So if you're one of those who have tried the Nelle but wound up with a hot mess on the arm holes, this tutorial is for you!

This version features a fully lined bodice. This fabric (Heather Ross's Crafty Chloe line) was on the thin side. I love the print, but I'm not a fan of see-through on the bodice. So we used the method below to do the bodice. Start by cutting FOUR bodice pieces and not two. I also added 2" to the length of the skirt piece. The sew the arm holes with fabric right sides together. Clip the curves, turn and press. You can do the side seams two different ways. You can follow the rest of the Nelle pattern or you can do them the way you do the side seams in Lazy Susan and have completely enclosed seams on the bodice. That's what I did on this one. I really like it, but I did have to seam the skirt piece first and gather in the round and attach it. That's not as fast as the Nelle version, or it isn't in my opinion. So choose which you want and keep going.

Next we prep are sleeves. I serge the edge, then I fold up the hem a quarter inch, or just a tad more than the serging. To apply the lace, I lay it under the starting edge and position as I sew. I use my topstitching stitching length (3.5 for me here, but sometimes I go up to 4) and go slowly. I don't like pins so I just keep positioning the lace as I round that gentle curve.

To keep straight, I line the edge of my sleeve up with the little edge at the back of my sewing foot. You can kind of sort of see that in the pic below. Follow the edge of the fabric up to the back of the sewing foot and you can see a 'line' on the foot.

I didn't add the second line of stitching that the pattern suggests because I didn't fold up my hem that much. You can add it if you want. Topstitiching always add such detail! I loved this dainty little sleeve as is, so I left it. 

Now on to joining those sleeves to the bodice. Since we're NOT using bias tape, we're going to do a kind of french seam method. Line up the sleeve and the bodice right sides together (shown in first pic), then make sure you move that sleeve over a tad leaving about an eighth or quarter inch of the bodice exposed on the side (shown in top right pic). This will keep your edge from fraying into the inner bodice. Next, we fold that sleeve over and you can sew on or press it down nicely. I did a finger pressing (yes, I just smooth it out with my finger, it works).  

Then, I use the center needle position, my topstitching stitch length and fold of the sleeve as my edge guide to stitch that sleeve in place. You can choose to continue that 1/8th inch topstitch all the way down to the bottom of the sleeve or not. I chose not to because I knew I still had to attach the other sleeve if you think ahead (I wasn't), you could do the first step in attaching the sleeves on all sides and then topstitch them all down nicely with no stops. So, if you do that, make sure you turn the bodice inside out to to make attaching the opposite sleeve easier, as shown below. 

Phew, that just leaves the neckline! Press down as stated in the pattern. Again, I used thin fabric, so I didn't have thicker layers to contend with. However, if you used heavier cottons (say Jennifer Paganelli stuff), you may want to cut your inner lining down about an inch shorter than the outer bodice. This should give you a good scrunch with the elastic but not let the inner lining get skipped when stitching the casing.

 I don't like drawing lines on my pretty fabric... so I use my project for sewing guides. I did my first stitch (the one you leave open on the bottom for the elastic) right on the top of the serging. I just following that all the way around (here's where you want your serged edge to be nice and straight!). Then I place the side of my sewing foot on that first stitching and sew a straight line all the way around (no opening for elastic this time). So even if my first line wasn't perfectly straight, the second line will match it! Be careful, you don't want to slide too close to that first line when you go over those arm seams. It makes it a pain getting that 1/4" elastic through. I'm speaking from experience here... 

Up on the blog tomorrow is Raedene of Chasing Mermaids with her method to apply perfect bias tape. You don't want to miss this one!